Lucky Saint spends six weeks in the brewery before it reaches your glass. Full fermentation, proper maturation, then the alcohol is removed at the end. That process, longer than most lagers get regardless of whether they're full-strength, is why it tastes more like actual beer than most of the alcohol-free shelf. The four ingredients are Pilsner malt, Hallertau hops, Bavarian spring water and yeast. The unfiltered pour is hazy pale gold with a persistent white head. There's toasty bread and citrus on the nose, biscuity malt on the palate with lemon and orange zest from the hops, and a mild, clean bitterness on the finish. It's not trying to be anything other than a decent lager, and mostly it succeeds.