Pastry stouts live or die on whether the sweetness tips into cloying territory. This one largely avoids it. The honeycomb and dark chocolate character is prominent from the first pour, with the aroma running toward toffee, milk chocolate and a soft roasted note in the background. On the palate the sweetness is genuine but the roasted malt holds enough bitterness to keep it moving rather than sitting still. It is rich without being heavy, which is partly down to the body being lighter than you might expect from the style. Near-black in the glass, tan head, creamy texture and smooth carbonation. Ten calories per 100ml is unusually low for something this flavourful. A good winter can.