Aegean Sky is one of three alcohol-free spirits in Salcombe's New London Light range, and the most distinctive of them. Where the others reach for more familiar botanical territory, this one leans into the Mediterranean: kumquat, blood orange, bergamot, rosehip, rosemary and olive, distilled individually in a rotary vacuum still to pull out the flavour without the alcohol. Kombucha goes in at the end for stability. The olive is the thing worth paying attention to. It brings a faint savouriness and a slightly oily texture that you genuinely don't encounter in many drinks, alcoholic or otherwise. The citrus is bitter rather than sweet, the rosemary is properly herbal rather than decorative, and the finish is dry with a woody, quassia-like quality that persists. Poured over ice with tonic and a strip of orange peel, it behaves more like a vermouth or a bitter aperitif than anything in the gin alternative category. It suits the aperitivo slot better than most of its competition.