Birmingham Brewing Company put the nitrogen in from the start rather than as an afterthought. The result is the familiar slow settle and velvety head you'd expect from the format, with a mouthfeel that's full and rounded rather than thin or gassy. The roasted malt character is direct and honest: dark chocolate and coffee dominate, with toasted grain underneath and a thread of caramel that keeps it from turning harsh. The bitterness comes in at the finish and holds on, leaving the palate dry. Oatmeal rounds out the body without softening things excessively. At 0.5% ABV, it sits comfortably in the zero-alcohol stout category without straining to prove itself. Vegan and gluten-free if those details matter to you.