Hardys use a process they call Zero Tech X to remove the alcohol: it works at cooler temperatures than conventional dealcoholisation, which means volatile aromatics don't get cooked off in the process. The difference shows in the glass. This sparkling version has a white peach and floral nose with a citrus edge, and it doesn't smell like grape juice that's been treated. On the palate it's soft and effervescent, with lemon curd and melon coming through rather than anything sharp or thin. The nougat note in the finish rounds things out. It won't pass for Champagne, but as alcohol-free sparkling wine goes it's more coherent than most, and it holds together in a flute without embarrassing itself.