Made by Reh Kendermann for the Waitrose own-label range, using Spanish Chardonnay grapes. Full fermentation, then the alcohol is removed via low-temperature vacuum distillation, and the wine is carbonated separately. Small additions of glycerine and flavouring go in to finish it off. The label carries 0.5% ABV. It pours pale gold with a steady stream of fine bubbles. The nose has ripe peach and melon with a subtle yeasty backdrop, which gives it a bit more character than some of the simpler carbonated options in the category. On the palate the fruit is clean and gentle, soft citrus coming through mid-palate, before a crisp and short finish with a faint sweetness. As a celebration-occasion substitute this is a solid choice. It reads as sparkling wine in a way that some rivals don't quite manage.