Primitivo is a thick-skinned, sun-ripened variety that tends toward jammy, concentrated fruit even in its regular alcoholic form. The Alternativa version is dealcoholised via spinning cone columns, a low-temperature process that keeps the grape's natural aromas while stripping the alcohol out. The wine pours ruby red. Ripe blackberry, cherry and blueberry come through on the nose, with fig and a background note of Mediterranean herbs. On the palate, dark fruit carries through with cassis and a medium-bodied structure that gives it real weight. Tannins are soft enough that it doesn't feel austere. The finish has the characteristic touch of residual sweetness you'd expect from Primitivo. It's one of the more convincing dealcoholised reds around. The grape variety helps: dense, ripe fruit makes for a more credible wine without the alcohol than something delicate and restrained would.