Grüner Veltliner is Austria's most planted white grape and the Heribert Bayer winery in Burgenland is a well-regarded producer of it. Zeronimo starts with a proper full-strength wine and dealcoholises it using vacuum distillation at low temperatures, which matters more for delicate whites than almost any other style, since the aromatic compounds that define Grüner are among the first things to disappear under heat. What comes through is pale straw in colour, clean and defined. The nose is fresh without being simple: green apple blossom, a suggestion of almond and the white pepper note that tells you immediately what variety you're drinking. On the palate, nectarine and lemon zest come forward, underpinned by that mineral backbone the grape typically carries from Burgenland soils. The texture is soft and dry with no sweetness to pad it out. The finish is clean and lasts. At under 0.5% it sits comfortably in the alcohol-free category while tasting like an actual expression of the grape rather than a wine approximation. Worth serving well chilled.