Airén is not a grape you see often in the alcohol-free category. It is the dominant white variety on the sun-baked plains of La Mancha, and Vinada ferment it fully before pulling out the alcohol through vacuum extraction at low temperature, a process that captures the volatile aromas and puts them back into the finished wine. The result pours a bright, light gold with persistent fine bubbles. There is lemon zest and bruised apple on the nose, a touch of grape skin underneath, and the carbonation keeps everything fresh. On the palate it is dry and clean, with the citrus and apple notes carrying through to a soft, crisp finish. The mousse is gentle rather than aggressive. It sits firmly in aperitif territory. The dryness and delicate effervescence make it a reasonable stand-in when a glass of sparkling wine is called for.