The Phony Negroni predates most of what's now in the non-alcoholic RTD cocktail space. St. Agrestis built it from botanicals rather than dealcoholising spirits - 30 non-GMO organic ingredients, steeped and assembled at their Brooklyn distillery. The approach is constructive rather than subtractive, which means the drink has its own character rather than reading as an approximation of something else. It opens with floral and citrus on the nose, with juniper and herbal complexity coming through. On the palate there's bitter orange, quinine, and a gentle sweetness sitting behind the bitterness. The carbonation is light, and the mouthfeel is smoother than many carbonated AF drinks. The finish is crisp, with herbal and citrus notes lasting. It reads clearly as a Negroni. Whether you want the flavour without the alcohol, or you're simply curious what the category can do, it holds up.