Colombard is an aromatic variety that grows well in Gascony, the same region known for Armagnac and Gaillac. Moderato works with it here at what they describe as France's first dedicated dealcoholising facility, using vacuum evaporation to strip the alcohol while keeping the fruit character intact. It pours pale yellow. The nose is fragrant with pear, melon, and citrus zest. On the palate there is grapefruit and mandarin, a floral lift, and enough acidity to keep things lively. The finish is dry rather than sweet. It does not taste syrupy, which is a genuine risk with alcohol-free whites. At around 14 calories per 100ml it is very light. A decent option if you want a glass of white wine with dinner without the alcohol or the calorie load.