Huyghe have been making Delirium Tremens at their Melle brewery since the late 1980s, and Delirio is what happens when that tradition gets applied to the alcohol-free bracket. The alcohol is reduced to 0.3%, the oats stay in, and so does the proprietary spice blend that gives the Delirium range its character. It pours pale gold and clear, with a white foam that settles quickly. The nose is quiet but coherent: biscuit malt, a touch of citrus, a hint of coriander. On the palate there is more going on than the aroma prepares you for. The malt body is soft and round, there is ripe citrus and a suggestion of red berry mid-palate, and the spice comes through before a moderately bitter hop finish. Lively carbonation without being sharp. For the AF category this sits in, it is one of the more characterful options. Belgian spiced ales have enough going on that the absence of alcohol is less obvious than in something as stripped-back as a lager.