The base wine for this is 20 years old. It was made, barrelled, bottled and left in a cellar in Mittelburgenland for nearly two decades before anyone even thought about dealcoholising it. That is not how alcohol-free wine usually works. Zeronimo's vacuum distillation process then stripped the alcohol while their aroma recovery method pulled back the volatile compounds. The result is a drink that carries genuine age in the glass, something essentially unheard of in this category. The nose has that dried, settled quality of mature wine: caramelised mushrooms, forest floor, cassis and nougat sitting together without competing. On the palate the primary fruit has largely faded, as it would in any aged wine, leaving behind the darker, more complex language of tertiary development. The tannins are well integrated after all that time; the body is medium-full with a long finish that stays with you. The first edition ran to 2,500 bottles. It is not cheap and it is not trying to be your everyday table wine. If you want to understand what aged wine actually tastes like without the alcohol, this is about as close as the alcohol-free category currently gets.