JP Chenet Free starts life as a conventional Chardonnay before the alcohol is removed via vacuum distillation, a low-temperature process that's gentler on delicate aromas than some alternatives. The result pours pale gold with a faint greenish tint, fine bubbles, and a nose of white flowers, vanilla, and stone fruit. On the palate there's ripe pear and peach, with enough acidity to stop it tasting flat or cloying. The mouthfeel is soft and rounded. It finishes clean, with a floral note that lingers briefly. It won't pass for a full Champagne, but it's a solid choice in the dealcoholised sparkling category and better than quite a few.